Is Hair Typing Necessary

March 7, 2013 by · 9 Comments

When I decided to transition a few years back hair typing was a very hot topic and it still is today. And personally it’s just as confusing to me now as it was then when I first heard it mentioned on YT. Some of you may be wondering, what is hair typing? Well, basically it’s a hair classification system that was created to help women (and some men), especially those of us with curly/kinky textured hair, find products that would be most beneficial to our hair’s needs. The hair typing system was created by Andre Walker, a famed hair stylist to Oprah and author of the book Andre Talks Hair. Walker’s hair typing system is one of the most widely used and referenced systems in the natural hair community. Some naturalista’s swear by it and others simply think it’s just another way to cause division among us. But the question still remains is natural hair typing necessary?

Let’s take a closer look at Walker’s hair typing system:

Hair Type#

 Hair Texture Hair Description
1a Straight (Thin/Fine) Hair tends to be soft, shiny, oily and hard to damage. Does not hold   a curl
1b Straight (Medium) Hair has a lot of volume.
1c Straight (Coarse) Hair is typically bone straight. Most Asian women have this texture.
2a Wavy (Thin/Fine) Hair has a definite “S” pattern and normally can accomplish many   styles.
2b Wavy (Medium) Hair tends to be frizzy and often resistant to styling.
2c Wavy (Coarse) Hair has thicker waves, tends to be frizzy and resistant to styling.
3a Curly (Loose Curls) Hair has a definite “S” pattern, tends to be frizzy and is thick   & full of body. It may also have a combination of textures.
3b Curly (Tight Curls) Hair tends to have a combination of textures and has a medium amount   of curl.
4a Kinky (Soft) Hair has a more defined curl pattern, tightly coiled and tends to be   very fragile.
4b Kinky (Wiry)

Hair has a less defined curl pattern; it’s more of a “Z” shaped   pattern. The hair is very fragile and tightly coiled.

 

My Handmade Hair Typing Chart

My Handmade Hair Typing Chart

The most common hair types for women of color are Type’s 3 and 4.  But even after narrowing it down to those, some (like me) still find it difficult to determine their hair type, simply because we typically have more than one texture on our heads. However, there are many women who have found this hair typing system to be very useful. If you are lucky to know your hair type, then more than likely there is a blogger/vlogger with the same texture…which means hair inspiration, styling ideas and product recommendations. And then there are those that think that the hair typing system is just another means of separation, “good hair vs. bad hair.”

Personally, I don’t find the hair typing system to be that useful for me….it’s a bit difficult to for me to truly categorize my hair. And although I haven’t always had the best luck when trying products, I have determined which products/ingredients work best for my hair from simple trial and error. However, I do understand that everyone may not be as fortunate as I am to have found products/techniques that work so using the hair typing system can be a very using tool in guiding you in the right direction. But always keep in mind that even if your hair is similar in texture to another naturalista’s, there is no guarantee that the same products/techniques will work for you. As always I suggest good ole’ trial and error when it comes to natural hair. And learning to love and embrace you texture no matter what it is.

So do you think natural hair typing is necessary?

UPDATE: Please note that the hair types 3c and 4c are not mentioned in the hair typing chart above. Type 3c and 4c were excluded because in my research I discovered that they were not a part of the original Andre Walker Hair Typing System but were later created and added by those in the natural hair community. Type 3c hair is curly (tight curls/corkscrews) with a circumference similar to that of a pencil or straw. And the curls can be either kinky or very tightly curled, with lots of strands densely packed together. Type 4c is very similar to type 4b however there is little to no definition.

 

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About Roni

Also known as Chic Roni, is a wife, mom, self-proclaimed fashionista and blogger. Obsessed with (in no particular order) natural hair, makeup, shopping, social media and coupons. You will probably find me (and my curls) on the cosmetics aisle coupons in one hand, cell in the other looking for the perfect lip gloss. Find out more about Roni and her hair at her personal blog, www.thesavvyhousewife.com.

  • Ashley

    What happened to 3c? Is there a reason this curl type was not included? I know that it was not in the original Andre Walker system, but the system has been updated to include 3c, and it’s one of the more common types you see women of color identify with. This article seemed sort of incomplete without it.

    • Roni

      Thanks so much for pointing that out Ashley. I decided not to include the 3c hair type because in my research I found that the 3c (like 4c) was not a part of the orginal Andre Walker hair typing system which is discussed above, instead it was later added by a member of the natural hair community. I updated the article to note my reason for the exclusion. Thanks again for pointing that out. =)

  • Amija James

    I think so. Kind of like body typing, it helps you figure out what you’re working with. For example, I have a big frame or big boned as some might say. So I know that with my height and frame, 130 lbs is not a good look(I get the big head Oprah look when she lost weight). So I work with what I got.
    Hair typing is the same. I’m a 4b. I follow bloggers and you tubers with 3 or 4a hair types, but I know that it’s not realistic for me to expect my hair to grow as fast as someone who is a type 3 and that my hair is not going to curl up like a 4a.
    I don’t think anything is wrong with knowing your hair type. I get hair information from all hair types, but I stalk my sister 4b’s just because I know they know what I’m working with.

    • fujoshifanatic

      I agree. It’s not the information that’s bad, it’s what people do with that information that is the problem. Unfortunately, hair types have become the new code words for “good” and “bad” hair, where people now want to have or emulate type 3 or 4a and become disappointed when they discover they have type 4b hair. It’s really ridiculous how some people can take a helpful system and apply negative connotations to it,causing problems for everyone. :-/

      • Roni

        I agree with you both, the information is useful for those who are able to identify their hair type. I know several naturalista’s that swear by it. Unfortunately as with anything, you always those who will find something negative about something that was created to be helpful.
        Thanks so much for sharing! =)

  • Prototype Mama

    Great break down! When I first started out–everyone was talking about hair typing and I got really confussed but now that I’ve done my research, I love that I now know that I am a 4b/4c mix. It helped me with choosing oils and products as well as maintance. My hair was dry and brittle due to me not knowing but it’s healthy and full of body due to me educating myself.

  • http://mbblife.com/ Britton

    I am new to this natural hair life (I just BCd last month) and this post is very helpful to me! I think I am 4a, but I feel like I have some 4b mixed in too. I’ve been looking at YT tutorials, but now I now to search for my specific hair type. Thanks!

  • daphyne shine

    Ill admit that when I began, the hair typing is pretty confusing. But i think it is necessary. There are some thing that 4a’s and 2abc’s can do that i can not. There are some things that 3′s can do that 1′s 2′s and 4′ cannot. So in that sense yes it is important. There are some styles i would love to do but my curl pattern is not kinky enough for what I desire to do. There are some things like braids, twists, and knots which work for all types. But in some cases hair type is important in others they are not.

    • http://www.longing4length.com/ EbonyCPrincess

      I agree! I think the separation when using the system is what rubs me the wrong way about it. But like you said, there are times its helpful – even with my relaxed hair. Type 4s have to take more care when stretching for example. Great comment!