Hourglass Rollers | Step By Step How to Roller Set Natural Hair

Hourglass Rollers | Step By Step How to Roller Set Natural Hair


As popular as the flat iron has become, with all the fancy plates and various sizes – for me – nothing is better than learning how to achieve the perfect roller set for both natural hair and relaxed tresses.  Personally, I’m just better at rollersetting than I am flat ironing, but that is not the only reason for my preference.  Roller sets healthier for the hair than blow drying and flat ironing, plus they result in bouncier, longer lasting curls.  For some, doing a rollerset at home seems nearly impossible but trust me with a bit of practice and a few tips, you’ll be able to achieve salon-like results in no time!

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First, you will need to gather your tools:  a couple of combs (wide tooth for detangling, small tooth for smoothing), detangling brush (I normally use the Felicia Leatherwood detangling brush), clips to section and hold your hair, a spray bottle filled with water and of course the rollers themselves.  For years, I have been using hourglass rollers to set my hair.  I prefer these to any other type of rollers because of their vented design and smooth bumps that help the hair “cling” to the roller for more tension – leading to superior results.  Plus the design of the rollers allows your hair to dry so much faster than traditional magnetic rollers.  I’m talking cutting your dryer time by as much as 50 percent!

Hourglass Rollers Tutorial, Tension Rollers, Studio Techilio 3

Hourglass rollers come in a variety of sizes, the most popular being the medium to large sizes pictured above.   You should select your size based on your desired look.  You can buy them directly from Longing 4 Length here!

Products will vary based on a person’s hair and preferences.  I always shampoo and deep condition my hair and apply a protein based leave-in conditioning spray to strengthen my strands; Favorites are Chi Keratin Mist and ApHogee Keratin and Green Tea Restructurizer.  In the past, I’ve also used a serum for extra smooth, shiny results but now I find I use my new ABSOLUTE favorite oil, Nouritress Vita-Oil because it does not contain any cones.

Hourglass Rollers Tutorial, Tension Rollers, Studio Techilio 2

I go through the steps to roller set your natural hair in the video tutorial above because sometimes a demonstration on how to use hourglass rollers is needed, especially for beginners.  As you see, there are only a few basic steps:

  1. Detangle and section hair as you plan to roll.
  2. Saturate hair with water, apply setting lotion (optional)
  3. Part hair into sections no wider or thicker than size of roller.
  4. Detangle hair smoothly with brush or small tooth comb.
  5. Pull hair taut, place hourglass roller at end of hair and roll to scalp.
  6. Place straight pin through roller to hold into place.
  7. Repeat over entire head, then either air dry or sit under hooded dryer.
  8. Apply oil or serum for shine
  9. Style hair.


  • Large pink hourglass rollers and larger – 24 rollers are enough for most women
  • Medium blue hourglass rollers – 24 to 32 rollers needed, depending on hair length and thickness.
  • Small Hourglass rollers and smaller – 28 to 36 rollers needed, depending on hair length and thickness.
  • Long Metal Pins – I recommend 16 or more, they are long enough to pin two rollers at once but most ladies use a single pin on the perimeter rollers.

Hourglass Rollers Tutorial, Hourglass Rollerset Tutorial, Longing 4 Length

Not only are roller sets great for achieving straight hair, they are also good to stretch hair in preparation for other styles and can also achieve curly looks as well.

  • Your roller set looks so good, Ebony! This post makes me want to roller set my hair next weekend. Great post and very help steps.

    • Thank you Kim! I love these rollers – I remember I used to set my hair every week. Although I can still do sets on my natural hair, that’s probably the number 1 thing I miss about being relaxed!

  • Fiona ( Finally Fiona)

    Absolutely love the results! This is awesome Ebony!